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Food and Nation: Mood-altering Meals at Roast

All those who think that British cuisine is rubbish (you know who you are) go AT ONCE to Roast in Borough Market. This is an establishment that proves the old adage: good British food = simple ingredients cooked well. The service is friendly and courteous and the restaurant itself is very spacious, spread across a wide mezzanine that puts diners on a level with the railway tracks. Where we sat we saw St Paul’s Cathedral across the river, local restaurants below, and of course, our fellow diners. The market itself was largely shut but there was still an atmosphere of tradition and commerce in one of the oldest parts of this great city.

Full Breakfast

My guest had the roast beef Monday Special and SEEN partook of the mood-altering January Special: a poussin with sweet roasted red onions, carrots and beetroot, with gravy. We shared a dish of winter greens and roast potatoes. My guest pronounced the beef tender AND tasty (very often it’s one or the other but rarely both). Her Yorkshire pudding was so light it was practically floating off the plate. My poussin was tender and flavoursome, falling off the bone and the delicate skin was just right. A perfect foil to the deliciously sweet roast vegetables. Cheering indeed, as were the warmed plates that kept our food hot as we ate!

Beef Wellington

To drink, we had a glass each of rosé (English of course), which, though fruity, had dry notes; very nice to go with the meat. I was stuffed by this point, so decided not to have a dessert. My guest indulged, ordering an almond cake. When it came it was more like a steamed pudding, something else that the Brits do exceedingly well. SEEN had a spoonful (strictly for research purposes you understand). It was lovely, with a citrus flavour that lifted it out of stodginess. It was very British in the best sense of the word. We had chilled water in the most beautiful glasses, constantly refilled by the lovely waiters. SEEN will definitely be back with people who, hitherto, have scoffed at the notion of British cuisine. We’ll convert them yet.

Veggie Burger

The Floral Hall
Stoney Street,