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Stoke House: Meat and Greet

So that’s what’s behind all the hoardings in Victoria! Shiny new offices and on the ground floor, a plethora of bars and restaurants that makes the whole area seem rather upscale. There was a time when eateries around a station felt down-at-heel quite quickly but SEEN suspects London’s dining game has been substantially upped by all this new development.

SEEN and guest sallied forth to try the new Stoke House on Buckingham Palace Road and found it very airy and light. The staff were friendly and attentive though still settling in and finding the rhythm of the local diners. Certainly everyone looked most enthusiastic on our visit.

Stoke House prides itself on locally sourced prime cuts from Cornwall butcher Phillip Warren, and his carefully selected breeds. The meat is cooked on site in a smoker using a blend of woods to enhance the flavours: Short rib, rump of beef, lamb belly, chicken, pork collar, Gloucester Old Spot sausage… Much of the menu is delightfully British: English asparagus, prawn cocktail, salmon, smoked bone marrow, new potatoes, carrots and cauliflour cheese, and fabulous cheeses (more of which, later), while breads tended towards the European; focaccia, sourdough and brioche.

SEEN opted for half a smoked beer can chicken, which was lovely and tender, while my guest went for the roast rump of beef, pronouncing it hearty and done to a tee. We had a couple of daily healthy salads to accompany, and quite honestly that was plenty: One tomato and onion and the other pepper, green beans and peas. The tastes and textures were fresh and robust, and for the price, seemed luxurious.

A sweet dessert seemed excessive so we went for a shared cheese board. Now this was sumptuous: Red Leicester, Stilton, Goat’s cheese, figs, apricots, charcoal crackers and walnuts with onion pickle. Memo to self: Awlays finish a meal this way.

If Stoke House carries on in this vein (pun intended), it will soon be a popular fixture in the area, so go and show a new restaurant some love. It’s what the British do excellently at the moment: simple food cooked according to traditional methods.

Stoke House
81 Buckingham Palace Road