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Theatrical Alchemy: Gucci at Milan Fashion Week

Fashion always re-invents itself, and in the process constantly references itself and the past from which it springs fully-formed, like Minerva from the head of Jupiter. Thus fashion God Alessandro Michele presented his AW17 co-ed collection of 119 looks on the catwalk for MFW.

Michele took alchemy as his central premise; turning base materials into gold noting his thematic intentions as “a transformative whirl that reassembles fragments, codes and stories projected on a fresh horizon of sense”.  Not so much a collection then, as a Gucci world-view.

His co-ed collection for AW17 saw motifs derived from nature (the base materials of ancient alchemists), and elements from fashion culture itself, all filtered through a Gucci (read Michele) sensibility.

As befitting such a fashion alchemist, Michele gave few interviews after the show, confining himself to brief appearances from his cloistered VIP room in an iridescent disco-ball jacket, leaving it to Gucci to fly in a coterie of club kids in drag and elaborate costumes, who, with Tori Amos, enlivened the after-party in the baroque halls of a school in Milan. The club kids are of course, the very inspiration that Michele needs to create his ‘Renaissance street style’.

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