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The Grill at McQueen Shoreditch: Fish and Chips With a Twist

Last night SEEN deserted the hustle and bustle of Old Street for the relative calm of Tabernacle Street in Shoreditch, there to sample the delights of The Grill at McQueen. A veritable shrine to the celebrated Hollywood star Steve McQueen, the space itself is quite stunning. Brown leather banquettes and tub chairs create comfortable seating around dark wood tables. The walls have a sort of Chesterfield vibe, if you know what I mean – plush leather studded with buttons. There’s a lot of rather fabulous up-lighting going on, which reflects in the two gorgeous chandeliers. The bar has mirrored shelving behind adding to the general twinkling effect. Like all the best places, it cushions the diner from the outside world.


There’s a nice menu of starters: Roasted & raw beets, watercress, sourdough croutons and whipped rosary goat’s cheese; Ox cheek and kidney pithivier, celeriac and horseradish purée; Classic steak tartare and sourdough toast; BBQ braised belly pork, red slaw, Stilton, candied walnuts; Pan fried crab cakes and spice brown crab; and London cure smoked salmon, dill cream cheese, bread and butter, pickles and rye bread. You could order three or four to share with your guest, easily.


The atmosphere was relaxed and the staff very friendly and knowledgeable. Nothing was too much trouble for them. I had a glass of water (nice and cold) and ordered a Black Spice cocktail that was not too sweet. The whisky notes made this rather sublime. I ate some lovely olives whilst trying to decide between the grilled lamb chops, crispy sweetbreads and salsa verde or the caramelised chicory and Rocquefort gratin but then the nice waiter said that battered haddock with pea puree and tartare sauce was the fish option, and suddenly I couldn’t resist. I should say that McQueen’s other dinner option is a half roasted free-range chicken with confit garlic and wild rocket. There are some lovely sides too: steamed or buttered spinach; triple cooked chips; dressed green salad; smoked cheddar macaroni cheese; scallion potatoes; roasted Chantenay carrots; and field mushrooms.


SEEN is pleased to tell you that McQueen makes an excellent version of this traditional British dish. The fish was encased in a light crispy batter and the triple cooked chips were delicious. The accompanying salad, pea puree, tartare sauce, and mayonnaise were fresh and light. This was quite filling so I opted for a Royal Tokaji dessert wine for pudding. This was deliciously cold and sweet, finishing off the meal in fine style. It’s modern British dining that isn’t afraid to display its European and American influences. Come for the lovely décor but stay for the delicious food. Seen recommends.


McQueen Shoreditch
55 – 61 Tabernacle Street