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Demna Gvasalia at Paris Men’s Fashion Week for Balenciaga

SEEN was all agog at Demna Gvasalia’s second AW17 menswear collection with its ‘twisted take on corporate dress’. It certainly looks twisted yet also seems warm and practical, subverting the pomposity that is often associated with high fashion and the corporate dress code. Tellingly, the reclusive Rei Kawakubo – behind Commes Des Garçons and Dover Street Market, was also present in a rare outing. Comme des Garçons collaborated with Gvasalia’s Vetements collective on a series of queer and fetish-inspired sweaters recently.

#Balenciaga: the whole collection in 40 seconds. #demnagvasalia #pfw

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Gvasalia continues his theme of bringing tailoring ‘out of its usual frame’ by teaming loosely-tailored jackets with super-low-cut narrow trousers. Models held bags of various sizes over the shoulder or simply by the hand. Sweatshirts sported the ‘Kering’ logo (Balenciaga’s parent company), and, extending the logo theme, jackets sported the Balenciaga logo with the graphic used by Bernie Sanders during his campaign. Slyly, Gvasalia seems to have indicated his own presidential preferences with this particular design.

SEEN was glad to see the diversity of the models strutting their stuff. Several ethnicities were present and also men in middle age, entirely in keeping with the deconstructed city attire theme. Orthopaedic trainers in a variety of colourways finished the outfits, as did a variation on the motorcycle boot. So, playful, practical, masculine and colourful; a genuinely fresh collection for AW17.

Corporate identity meets holding company hoodie at #balenciaga #kering #pfw #voguerunway

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@Balenciaga #fw17 #pfw #balenciaga2017

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